How to Make an All-In-One Facing for the Hana Tank + Dress

The Hana Tank + Dress Pattern features the bias binding method of finishing the neckline and armholes. A few testers noted that they would like the option to finish the Hana with a facing instead. Cass, one of the Hana testers and the sewist behind @craftyprofessor on Instagram, has created a tutorial for drafting and sewing an all-in-one facing for Hana.

Take it away, Cass!


I’m going to walk you through how to make an all-in-one facing for your Hana tank or dress using the Burrito Method.

Hana Dress, Version A

Hana Dress, Version A

Hana Dress, Version A back

Hana Dress, Version A back

Hana Tank, Version C

Hana Tank, Version C

Hana Tank, Version C facing

Hana Tank, Version C facing

STEP 1: Draft facing pattern pieces

To draft facing pieces, simply trace your pattern pieces onto extra paper – my facing pieces are blue.  The facing in the front will need to end above the bust dart, so make a mark just below the bust dart (after hemming it will be above it) and draw a straight line to the center front.  For button placket versions, the center front facing will end about half way between the fold line and the first notch. For View A, you will want to curve the line up a bit in the center so that the facing hem is not right at your bust point (You can do this for all versions if you want). For View A, just make your facing to the fold line and then cut it on the fold.  

 
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Make sure that the back facing piece is the same length as the front piece under the armpit, as this is where the front and back pieces meet.  I have shown an alternative cut line for the back facing, but in my examples below I have used a straight line.

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STEP 2: Cut facing fabric

Cut facing pieces instead of bias binding and make sure to also stay stitch the arm lines.

STEP 3: Prepare bodice for facing

Stay-stitch the bodice neckline and armholes, then prepare the placket (if sewing Versions B or C) and sew the bust darts as shown in steps 1-3 in the Hana Tank + Dress Pattern instructions.

STEP 4: Sew shoulder seams

Sew shoulder seams together for both the main bodice fabric pieces and the facings and finish with your desired method. Do not sew the the side seams yet.

STEP 5: Hem facings

Hem or finish the bottom edge of facings using your desired method. 

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STEP 6: Prepare the placket for facings (Versions B + C only)

For versions with the button placket, proceed with pattern instructions in step 5 (fold back and baste the placket). 

STEP 7: Attach facing to bodice pieces at neckline (all versions)

Next, lay the main pieces flat, with the right side up and put facing on top of it, right sides together.  Pin around neckline matching up shoulder seams.

For versions with the button placket, the facing should be about ¼ inch short of the fold in the front 

Facing for Versions B + C, Facing is split in the front.

Facing for Versions B + C, Facing is split in the front.

Closeup of facing for Versions B + C, pinned in place.

Closeup of facing for Versions B + C, pinned in place.

Facing for Version A, continuous in front and back.

Facing for Version A, continuous in front and back.

Sew around the entire neckline with 3/8 in seam allowance. For versions with the button placket make sure to start sewing at the edge of the fold of the placket and sew beyond the facing all the way to the edge of the other placket fold.

Clip the curves (all versions) and the point of the v-neck (Version A only) without clipping the stitch line. Press the seam allowance towards facing.

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STEP 8: Understitch the facing

Understitch the seam allowance to the facing very close to the seam along the neckline.  Make sure to sew through 3 layers – the two layers of the seam allowance and the facing.  I like to sew from the right side of the facing, but I will demonstrate from the wrong side so you can see where the stitching is going.   

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This is what it looks like after it is understitched. You should be able to see a line of stitching on the facing very close to the neckline.  This will help your neckline stay turned under nicely and the stitching will be concealed on the interior of the finished garment for a clean finish on the exterior. 

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Press facing to inside, and for versions with the button placket, flip front placket back to right side

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STEP 9: Sew the Armsyces – The ‘Burrito Method’ (all versions)

I will be using the ‘burrito method’ to attach the facing and main fabrics together at the arm holes. This video shows the method in action! Photos and written instructions continue below.

Video created by Cass Hausserman of @craftyprofessor


First, with the right side of the facing up, roll one side of the top over to the other side

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Next, you are going to match up the facing to the main fabric, but you have to make sure you have the right sides together.  To do this, reach under the top and pull the main around the burrito to match it up with the facing. Pin the facing to the main bodice long the armscye curve only. Sew just the curve of the armhole with the 3/8 in seam allowance.

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Clip the curves, and then pull the top through the shoulder.   

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Pulling the facing and bodice through “burrito” to right side (shown here on the Version A dress)

Pulling the facing and bodice through “burrito” to right side (shown here on the Version A dress)

Repeat this for the other side.

Now the facing is attached to the main fabric.  

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STEP 10: Press the armhole seams

Press the seams making sure to open them up as much as possible with your fingers as you’re pressing.  

STEP 11: Understitch the facing at the armholes

Next, understitch the facing to the armhole seam allowance as far as possible.  For this, you will be stitching the two layers from the seam allowance and the facing together very close to the armhole seam you sewed during the last step.  This top has a nice wide shoulder strap, so I was able to get almost all the way up to the shoulder seam in the back!

Underside of understitching shown on Version A dress

Underside of understitching shown on Version A dress

Finished understitching on right side of facing. You can see it is very close to the edge of the armhole.

Finished understitching on right side of facing. You can see it is very close to the edge of the armhole.

STEP 12: Sew side seams

Pull the front and back facing pieces out and away from the main bodice. Line up the armhole seams and pin the side seam of the front and back bodice and facing pieces together. The side seam of the facing and the main bodice pieces will be sewn in one step. 

Line up side seams (Version A dress)

Line up side seams (Version A dress)

Line up side seams (Version C tank)

Line up side seams (Version C tank)

Finish the side seam with your preferred method and press open or to the back.  Since the facing is only a couple of inches from the armpit opening, it is important to tack it down so that it doesn’t flip out.  You can make this nearly invisible by stitching a few stitches “in the ditch” of the main bodice side seam.

Facing is pinned to side seam and tacked to the main bodice. Tacking stitches are sewn “in the ditch”, meaning they are concealed in the exterior side seam.

Facing is pinned to side seam and tacked to the main bodice. Tacking stitches are sewn “in the ditch”, meaning they are concealed in the exterior side seam.

STEP 13: Proceed to the pattern for the remaining instructions

For versions with the button placket, proceed to the pattern instructions step 8 to topstitch the placket in place, then proceed with step 10 and 11 as indicated in the pattern.



And that’s it! Thank you so much, Cass, for sharing this technique!

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ABOUT CASS HAUSSERMAN

Hi!  I’m Cass, or CraftyProfessor (on Instagram).  I have always been crafty and have been sewing rectangular things and altering t-shirts for as long as I can remember, but I had never used a pattern.  About 2 years ago my VERY basic sewing machine died, and I decided to upgrade. I also had a 6 month old baby, and figured that I would try making him some leggings using a pattern for the first time, now that I had this nice new sewing machine.  About a year ago I started sewing for myself and my husband, and now I can’t get enough! I am somewhat fearless when it comes to trying new things and know that the Internet is such an amazing resource for what I don’t know. I work full time as an accounting professor, but I try to sneak in some sewing almost every day!  

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The Sadie Slip Dress: Five Ways!

When Michele of @winmichele announced that she and @faithstjules were hosting the Flashback Sewing Challenge on Instagram, I immediately knew which era of fashion I’d be honoring: The 90s!

Maybe it’s because I was coming-of-age in the 90s and early Aughts, but I love fashion of that era (and the music!). It holds so much nostalgia for me, taking me back to a time when—admittedly, driven primarily by my teenage hormones—everything felt important! And meaningful! And when it came to fashion, I often drooled over the outfits in magazines and T.V. shows and music videos (Friends or MTV Total Request Live, anyone?). The reality was, most of the fashion I longed for was slightly out of my reach as a young teen who’s wardrobe budget came from Mom. So as an adult, I find myself drawn to the style, at a time when I can buy my own clothes, or even better…make them myself! BOO-YAH!

Enter: the Sadie Slip dress.

First of all, I feel the responsibility to make a PSA: Make yourself a bias cut dress!!! The drape and flow of this little number is really flattering, and I don’t think I have ever felt so comfy in a dress. Definitely an easy win of a project—it was simple to make and looks great on. I recommend letting it hang for about 24 hours before wearing to let the drape of it settle into the fabric.

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The Sadie Slip Dress embodies everything I love about 90s style…romantic, versatile, and effortlessly sexy. Yep, I said it. This dress is sexy! It is so timeless and definitely something that will be a staple in my wardrobe from here on out. I took on this project like a little 90s-inspired capsule wardrobe. There are so many ways to style a dress like this, and here’s my take on it!

Scroll to the bottom for sizing, fabric, and cost details.

Sweet + Casual

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For my first look, I paired the dress with a white “baby tee”. I actually made this tee from an XXL thrifted t-shirt (it looked like it was never even worn!) that I cut down to my size using the Nikko Top pattern from True Bias. I preserved the neck binding and sleeve hems, and sewed it up in less than 15 minutes!

The t-shirt underneath makes the dress bra-friendly, and I could totally wear this outfit with a pair of Birkenstocks (not shown) just about anywhere during my normal daily errand-running.

Coffee House Poetry Reading

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That’s, like, SO 90s! Snap, snap, snap…

I found this denim vest at the Community Finery vintage thrift store in Lansing, MI. I used to have a vest almost identical to this one and for some reason I got rid of it a couple of years ago. Bummer!

Again, this look lends a casual vibe to the dress and makes it easy to wear without feeling too exposed. I also love the worn, rough denim against the delicate, ditsy floral print of the fabric.

Sunday Brunch

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One can never have too many cardigans! Remember when tank top and cardigan sets were a THING? Maybe the was the early Aughts…but I love how sweet and sophisticated this dress looks with a simple cardigan. It feels very feminine, and I love that!

This cardigan was another score from Community Finery.

Alanis Morissette Concert

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While photographing these outfits, I put on the All Out 90s playlist on Spotify. Appropriately, You Oughta Know started playing…and you oughta know I belted it out, because I can’t resist a good fem-rock anthem.

The 90s brought us grunge, and I love the playful femininity of the dress paired with the rockstar vibe of black boots and sunglasses (sunglasses also thrifted from Community Finery—I love that place!). I made the little choker necklace with some velvet ribbon and jewelry findings from Joann.

Last but not least: Date Night!

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A dainty necklace, a slip dress, and some strappy sandals were all it took to complete this look. And that’s why I love this dress so much: it can be dressed up, or dressed way down. Either way you go, it just works!

And I made the little necklace with clearance jewelry bits, also found at Joann (I couldn’t believe my luck finding this little smiley charm on clearance for 97 cents! Perfect!).

Sizing, fabric, and cost

For the Sadie Slip Dress, my measurements put me in the Medium range in the bust, Small in the waist, and Large in the hips. I knew that since it was bias cut, it would probably be just fine to sew a straight size Medium or Large, but I really wanted to shape the silhouette and give the skirt a bit of “flounce”. So I ended up with a Medium Bust, Extra Small Waist (which I took in after the dress was finished), and I graded to the XLarge size in the skirt. I also shortened the skirt by about 13 inches after I had a chance to try it on, before hemming with a narrow hem. The result is exactly what I was hoping for, and the skirt has a flounce-y, flirty hemline that I love!

I bought my fabric from JS International Textiles on Etsy. The listing says that it is an organic rayon challis (but I am a little skeptical of the “organic” label, as I’m not absolutely positive that it is possible to have rayon with an Organic certification…just something to consider if that is important to you). The quality is great! I ordered 3 yards and still have a good bit left over for another project.

Total Cost for all looks:

  • Sadie Slip Dress PDF Pattern: $8.54 USD ($12 AUD)

  • Rayon Challis Floral Fabric, 3 yards (including shipping): $25.91

  • Denim Vest, Yellow Cardigan, and Sunglasses (plus tax): $22.26

  • Thrifted T-shirt (cut down and re-sewn into baby tee): $3.00

  • Choker necklace and Smiley Necklace supplies (with lots left over for other jewelry projects): $12.11

    GRAND TOTAL: $71.82

And that’s it! I’m outtie! :)