The Hana Tank + Dress Pattern features the bias binding method of finishing the neckline and armholes. A few testers noted that they would like the option to finish the Hana with a facing instead. Cass, one of the Hana testers and the sewist behind @craftyprofessor on Instagram, has created a tutorial for drafting and sewing an all-in-one facing for Hana.
Take it away, Cass!
I’m going to walk you through how to make an all-in-one facing for your Hana tank or dress using the Burrito Method.
STEP 1: Draft facing pattern pieces
To draft facing pieces, simply trace your pattern pieces onto extra paper – my facing pieces are blue. The facing in the front will need to end above the bust dart, so make a mark just below the bust dart (after hemming it will be above it) and draw a straight line to the center front. For button placket versions, the center front facing will end about half way between the fold line and the first notch. For View A, you will want to curve the line up a bit in the center so that the facing hem is not right at your bust point (You can do this for all versions if you want). For View A, just make your facing to the fold line and then cut it on the fold.
Make sure that the back facing piece is the same length as the front piece under the armpit, as this is where the front and back pieces meet. I have shown an alternative cut line for the back facing, but in my examples below I have used a straight line.
STEP 2: Cut facing fabric
Cut facing pieces instead of bias binding and make sure to also stay stitch the arm lines.
STEP 3: Prepare bodice for facing
Stay-stitch the bodice neckline and armholes, then prepare the placket (if sewing Versions B or C) and sew the bust darts as shown in steps 1-3 in the Hana Tank + Dress Pattern instructions.
STEP 4: Sew shoulder seams
Sew shoulder seams together for both the main bodice fabric pieces and the facings and finish with your desired method. Do not sew the the side seams yet.
STEP 5: Hem facings
Hem or finish the bottom edge of facings using your desired method.
STEP 6: Prepare the placket for facings (Versions B + C only)
For versions with the button placket, proceed with pattern instructions in step 5 (fold back and baste the placket).
STEP 7: Attach facing to bodice pieces at neckline (all versions)
Next, lay the main pieces flat, with the right side up and put facing on top of it, right sides together. Pin around neckline matching up shoulder seams.
For versions with the button placket, the facing should be about ¼ inch short of the fold in the front
Sew around the entire neckline with 3/8 in seam allowance. For versions with the button placket make sure to start sewing at the edge of the fold of the placket and sew beyond the facing all the way to the edge of the other placket fold.
Clip the curves (all versions) and the point of the v-neck (Version A only) without clipping the stitch line. Press the seam allowance towards facing.
STEP 8: Understitch the facing
Understitch the seam allowance to the facing very close to the seam along the neckline. Make sure to sew through 3 layers – the two layers of the seam allowance and the facing. I like to sew from the right side of the facing, but I will demonstrate from the wrong side so you can see where the stitching is going.
This is what it looks like after it is understitched. You should be able to see a line of stitching on the facing very close to the neckline. This will help your neckline stay turned under nicely and the stitching will be concealed on the interior of the finished garment for a clean finish on the exterior.
Press facing to inside, and for versions with the button placket, flip front placket back to right side
STEP 9: Sew the Armsyces – The ‘Burrito Method’ (all versions)
I will be using the ‘burrito method’ to attach the facing and main fabrics together at the arm holes. This video shows the method in action! Photos and written instructions continue below.
First, with the right side of the facing up, roll one side of the top over to the other side
Next, you are going to match up the facing to the main fabric, but you have to make sure you have the right sides together. To do this, reach under the top and pull the main around the burrito to match it up with the facing. Pin the facing to the main bodice long the armscye curve only. Sew just the curve of the armhole with the 3/8 in seam allowance.
Clip the curves, and then pull the top through the shoulder.
Repeat this for the other side.
Now the facing is attached to the main fabric.
STEP 10: Press the armhole seams
Press the seams making sure to open them up as much as possible with your fingers as you’re pressing.
STEP 11: Understitch the facing at the armholes
Next, understitch the facing to the armhole seam allowance as far as possible. For this, you will be stitching the two layers from the seam allowance and the facing together very close to the armhole seam you sewed during the last step. This top has a nice wide shoulder strap, so I was able to get almost all the way up to the shoulder seam in the back!
STEP 12: Sew side seams
Pull the front and back facing pieces out and away from the main bodice. Line up the armhole seams and pin the side seam of the front and back bodice and facing pieces together. The side seam of the facing and the main bodice pieces will be sewn in one step.
Finish the side seam with your preferred method and press open or to the back. Since the facing is only a couple of inches from the armpit opening, it is important to tack it down so that it doesn’t flip out. You can make this nearly invisible by stitching a few stitches “in the ditch” of the main bodice side seam.
STEP 13: Proceed to the pattern for the remaining instructions
For versions with the button placket, proceed to the pattern instructions step 8 to topstitch the placket in place, then proceed with step 10 and 11 as indicated in the pattern.
And that’s it! Thank you so much, Cass, for sharing this technique!
ABOUT CASS HAUSSERMAN
Hi! I’m Cass, or CraftyProfessor (on Instagram). I have always been crafty and have been sewing rectangular things and altering t-shirts for as long as I can remember, but I had never used a pattern. About 2 years ago my VERY basic sewing machine died, and I decided to upgrade. I also had a 6 month old baby, and figured that I would try making him some leggings using a pattern for the first time, now that I had this nice new sewing machine. About a year ago I started sewing for myself and my husband, and now I can’t get enough! I am somewhat fearless when it comes to trying new things and know that the Internet is such an amazing resource for what I don’t know. I work full time as an accounting professor, but I try to sneak in some sewing almost every day!